“ Christian Westphal has been caught by the fuzz. Whereas last two seasons was all about cut, the story for Summer 2013 is texture and lightning. To ensure that the focus is on the fabrics, the Danish-born designer zeroes in on a few uncomplicated, graphic silhouettes: over-the-knee skirts, nylon silk jackets, pants with cut-away waistband, and the signature shirts, some of them pumped up with away-from-the-neck volumes and bringing refined add-on plisses on collar and placket pieces.
On the other side of the spectrum, a fitted jacket comes whipped up from a weightless silk and metal blend. In the Westphal collection you´ll see a mix of minimalism, strong silhouettes and fresh accent colours that still defines the 2010´s, and this remains Westphal´s thing.
Westphal wants his clothes to be for the modern urban women and aside from an incongruously literal Vegas reference in a metal powder gold print on black silk, the almost-abstractions look like scatterings of city lights. Westphal wants to literalize the notion when he decorates one skirt and a blouse with melting gold to replicate the lights of a Vegas building by night. But the real inspiration is anything but pseudo-science.
There is a school of thought which says that mystery preserves the magic, but Westphal tries to understand that if you reveal the machinery, you can enhance the mystery. That's because you're throwing a spotlight on the intangibles of creativity. But the other message of the collection is man-made: a shrugged-off casualness, and because this isn´t particularly fashion, Westphal uses the counterbalance of hyper-fashion silhouettes from Italian and Spanish haute couture of the 1950´s, however simultaneously academic and seductive.
Photography Bo Johannsen (Copenhagen, Denmark) Print design Sara Haraigue (Paris, France) Model Emilie Ellehauge @ Scoop Models (Copenhagen, Denmark)
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