Christian Westphal AW 2010 Photography Soren Starbird | www.starbird.dk Model Nicolai Haugaard
The Winter 2010 collection from Christian Westphal has a refined aesthetic with slashes of Renaissance heroes from the paintings of Tizian and El Greco.
The cuts, colours, silhouettes and attitude of the Italian Renaissance paintings is the inspiration for the Autumn Winter 2010 collection. The look is a glamorous, dirty but quiet, modern Euro-boho, with an ongoing nod to armoured self confident kings and noblemen dressed in shiny black metal waistcoat, oversized shirts, small and neat collars and accessorized with heavy trims and huge scarfs. A style that contributes to dress with layer on layer, like the urban nomads we have become.
The AW10 collection is less ceremonial and more muted and monochromatic―though no less surreal―than the brightly colored Summer 2009 collection, but keeps the urban graphic look, in particular the architectural take on casual suiting. However the colour palette is essentially black and white with dashes of bottle green optimism, turquise crispiness and navy blue classicism.
A tweak here and there can elevate even the simplest outfits. Notice the crispy cotton poplin shirt with a neatly folded starched-looking collar on collar, the check patterned shirt with the collar that develops into an oversized scarf, or the casual blazer in knitted merino wool. Small moves like these separate you from the pack.
The jeans sharpen up for Winter 2010. Not that I am saying you should wear these hand-painted torn-and-frayed blue denim to the office, but it’s hard to go wrong wearing it when you’re off the clock. The denim collection also consists of raw black and washed blue jeans – all three are woven and stitched on the famed looms of Okayama, Japan.
It’s called attitude. Nothing finishes off an outfit better than a sharp dose of confidence. How else do grown men get away with wearing a plucked and beat up mink jacket over a hooded jersey top ? But we’re not talking hip-hop-bling-shake-the booty fur―we’re talking slim-cut, rock-guy getup biker jacket to be worn with dirty and oily boots with attitude.
The strategy is to modernize menswear, calibrating the millimeter of difference that separates a boring uniform from an innovative piece. Christian Westphal sees avant-garde as deconstruction, working to and from the human body and making pieces with a strong, modern look.
The collection is based on the book "Gentleman- A timeless guide to fashion" by Roetzel Bernhard, which is an inclusive manual of a modern man's classic and timeless dressing in every situation. Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection deals with the 21st century young man's dressing, style, cuttings and materials, that make a man a confident walker on the big city streets. I want to encourage men to dress more stylish using a modern dress code etiquette. (Text from Official site)
The latest collection of Sjaak Hullekes brings you the highlights of a metropolitan city as seen through the eyes of a man that grew up in a small town. Sjaak Hullekes wanted to give this collection all the positive and nostalgic feelings a small town can bring, to escape from the daily reality and rush of the city.
During cold days in a harsh big city, this warm-colored collection will bring you the cosiness you crave.
To give this collection its warm nostalgic touch, Sjaak Hullekes used a large range of fabrics, including silks, cottons, wools, cashmeres and even mink fur. Most of the fabrics have a soft touch, and are warm even though they are sometimes very thin or even transparent. High pile, brushed and heavy knit in combination with the fragile fabrics give this collection an exclusive look, balanced, comfortable, conscious yet sometimes naive. The fabrics provide positivity for a winter after recession, for a winter in which we can invent and explore again. The colors used are navies, dark blues, browns, various grays, whites and a bit of sophisticated orange. All the colors together will bring a sense of nature, to remind of the small-town childhood.
As Sjaak Hullekes believes in quality and passion as being the future of fashion, he commits to showing the workmanship in a garment in this collection again. It is displayed in many hand-stitched details such as collars, cuffs, flies and bindings, a collection of handmade leather belts, and of course in his typically detail-driven handwriting throughout fringed edges and French seams.
The inspiration for this collection leans on the mid 60’s and 70’s, when youth cultures were abundant and a new way of dressing emerged. Denim jackets, safari jackets, ‘Lammycoats’ made out of sheared mink, and unconstructed blazers show in their origin a nostalgic empathy for what was happening then in the big cities. Combined with the craftsmanship of the early 20th century and modern fit, comfort and detailing this collection brings together everything needed by modern man.
This blog do not claim ownership rights of any images, videos and other visual contents. If you own the rights to any of the contents and do not wish them to appear on this blog, please contact me via E-mail and they will be promptly removed.